The hands behind the fire.

Fire is the only thermometer.

Our head griller has spent a lifetime over coals. He reads the fire by colour, turns every skewer by hand, and refuses to plate anything that has waited longer than a minute off the grill.

“If the coals are right, the meat needs almost nothing — salt, spice and patience.”

The clay oven is seasoned daily, the charcoal is lit hours before we open, and each station — tandoor, skewer, fryer — is run by someone who does only that, all night.